Hiking Shenandoah

With several big trips canceled and COVID being the culprit, it was time for a change of scenery.  We wanted to explore somewhere new.  Even though I find myself longing to walk down a bustling avenue, rushing past massive storefronts, street vendors and stockbrokers in suits, this getaway was calling for seclusion.  Another COVID requirement for our family was that other than lodging and bathroom breaks, we needed to be outside at all times. 

Shenandoah National Park presented itself as the perfect trip.  I enjoy hitting our National Parks because they offer the perfect mix of outdoor adventure with just enough serenity to rejuvenate the soul.  Shenandoah is only 4 and a half hours from Charlotte and it’s near Charlottesville, Virginia… one of my faves!

Looking at it on a map, you’ll notice it is a very long, very thin park with one main road.  Skyline Drive (an extension of the Blue Ridge Parkway with a different name) runs through the entire park from north to south.  It starts at Milepost 105 at Rockfish Gap (south) and stops at Milepost 0 at Front Royal (north). Skyline Drive’s speed limit is 35 mph.  It takes about 4 hours to drive all the way through.  As pretty as it is, a four hour leisure ride was out of the question with two active kids, especially though an internet barren park.  We did go to gain sanity after all.

We would have loved to camp, however, sites were first come first serve due to the pandemic.  We chose a first floor hotel room in Charlottesville and made the 30ish minute drive both mornings.  The entrance fees into Shenandoah are $30 per vehicle for a consecutive 7 day period.  However, this trip was on the house because I have a fourth grader and the National Every Kid Outdoors Program grants free entry to any National Park during a child’s fourth grade year.  

Because there are so many hikes, I had to do a lot of research on which ones would be the best for my family.  My kids are still young, but like a challenge.  The more rocks to climb, the better. As for me, my knees aren’t in the best shape.  It’s probably about time to have someone get in there for some clean up work around my ACL reconstruction – circa 1995. 

There are many hikes ranging from easiest to very strenuous. They range in length from 1 hour to 9 hours to longer for those hiking the Appalachian Trail.  Trail blazes (or splotches of paint) are found on trees and/or rocks on all the trails.  Blue blazes are located on hiking trails.  White blazes are found on The Appalachian Trail and yellow blazes indicate horse trails, so you’ll need to watch where you step.  Speaking of which, Shenandoah is home to two types of venomous snakes, the timber rattlesnake and the copperhead.  You’ll want to be on the lookout for them.  Also make sure you have plenty of water on your hikes.  It’s also important to note that while pets are welcome in Shenandoah, there are several trails that post “No Pets.”

We decided to spend two days in the park.  We explored the south district on day one.  We entered the park at Rockfish Gap (mile post 105). Because of Covid, food choices were extremely limited in the park, so we packed a picnic lunch. 

Our first hike was Turk Mountain, an “easiest” rated, 2.2 mile round trip hike to the summit with beautiful views.  We parked at the Turk Gap Parking area (mile post 94.1) and crossed over Skyline Drive to take the Appalachian Trail to the south. Then turned right onto the Turk Mountain Trail.  The trail path is very narrow in the tree line.  As we were walking my husband heard something “big” in the bush and spotted a black bear 10 yards away.  We continued on swiftly, but quietly so that we wouldn’t attract any attention. When you get to the first summit on the left, the views are amazing.  The kids were able to play on the rocks as there was not a steep cliff.  After spending time at that summit, we continued onto the path to the second summit area.  In researching, I’d read that many hikers miss one summit area or the other.  Again, breathtaking views.  This hike took us about two and a half hours by the time we factored in playing on the rocks and our exciting bear hunt.  

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After a picnic lunch at an overlook, we headed to Black Rock Summit. We parked at the Black Rock parking area (mile post 84.4) and followed to Appalachian Trail to the trail head.  This summit was a family favorite and it stood out for being so unique. When we got to the top we were surrounded by amazing views and a gigantic pile of broken rocks.  When looking at each rock more carefully, you can actually see the layers and quartzite patterns on each.  You can walk on a path around the summit, or if you feel like a climb, just scramble on up. My children made it look very easy, I really think they are half-mountain goat.  It took me a little bit longer as I’m always unsure of my footing , but it felt good to conquer Black Rock Mountain.

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We wanted to try a little of the Rip Rap/Wildcat Ridge Trail to try to see a waterfall.  We parked at Rip Rap Parking (mile post 90). The trail is a very strenuous hike that takes over 8 hours to complete.  We had just hoped to go an hour in to see Calvary Rocks and Chimney Rocks and then come back up on the same trail we went down.  However, after about 20 minutes down, the hill was so steep with no leveling out in sight.  It was much more strenuous than I had thought, so we turned around and headed back.

We stopped at Loft Mountain Wayside (mile post 79.5), which is a little camp store.  They have snacks and souvenirs. We picked up postcards and 4 ice cream sandwiches to give us just enough energy to go back and do Black Rock Summit again.  The kids begged and we just couldn’t resist.

The next day we explored the middle of the park.  Instead of entering in the south entrance like we did the day before, we entered at Swift Run Gap (mile post 65.7). The day’s first hike was Dark Hollow Falls.  This “moderate” rated hike is a 1.4 mile round trip.  While the “destination” of this hike is breathtaking, the trail to get there is really enjoyable.  There is something serene about hiking in the shaded cool morning mountain air as the sounds of water from a steam  trickle by your path.  As you get closer to the falls, the trail becomes very steep and very rocky.   But the falls are beautiful and the kids loved climbing on the rocks.  The short climb up again was very steep and slick from rain, but the hike was one of our favorites and worth a few minutes of shortness of breath.  

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We made a stop at Big Meadows Lodge Area (mile post 51.2)  A restaurant at the lodge with indoor and outdoor dining serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily in season.  While they were in the midst of opening up (COVID closure), they were still closed the afternoon we were there. It was a shame.  We had really looked forward to taking in the views at lunch with a piece of their famous blackberry ice cream cake on their beautifully rustic patio. The Big Meadows area also has a campground and the Big Meadows Wayside has fuel, restrooms WITH running water, souvenirs and grab-and-go food.  

Next, we headed to Bearfence Mountain.  From the Bearfence Parking Area (mile post 56.5), there are a couple different ways to experience the mountains.  The Bearfence Viewpoint Hike is rated “easist” and is a 1.1 mile roundtrip.  You will experience some pretty good views.    We chose the “moderate” Bearfence Scramble Hike. This was without any doubt my gang’s favorite hike of the trip. If you are afraid of heights, this hike is NOT for you. However, if you choose to take this one, you are rewarded with the most incredible 360 degree view of the park.  And the rock scramble is just really fun. A lot of the trail is just rock, so you are pulling yourself up and over the rocks to get to the summit.  It offers enough adrenaline to make it exciting and adventurous yet it is safe enough for my 10 and 13 year old kids (with major supervision and expectations explained prior to starting off.) The hike is 1.4 mile round trip but we combined it with the Bearfence Viewpoint Hike so we came back using the Appalachian Trail.  I’m not really sure I could muster up the nerve to go back the way I came.  Not that it wasn’t fantastic and not that I wouldn’t do it again.  It just really elevates the ole heart rate seeing your kids up on super high rocks and no guardrails or anything to keep them up.  More importantly, I think it’s easier climbing up the rocks than to climb down them. 

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Lastly, and maybe least, as it was our least favorite hike, was Hawksbill Mountain.  This is the highest peak in Shenandoah.  We parked at the Upper Hawksbill Parking (milepost 45.5). We were trying to save time by taking moderate Hawksbill Summit Hike, instead of an easy Upper Hawksbill to Hawksbill Summit Hike.  We parked at the Hawksbill Parking Area (mile post 45.5) and headed up the 690 foot elevation gain (very quickly).  The views at the top were really pretty and there was a neat viewing area, however, walking up and down such a steep trail at the end of the day sucked the joy out of the hike.  

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Near Rock Fish Gap, we hit up Blue Mountain Brewery.  It was a treat.  A massive patio overlooks amazing mountain views.  Service was excellent. And the food and beer is fantastic.  We took our time to order our main course while we munched on our pretzel appetizer with beer cheese to eye all the food that came out from the kitchen inside.  The pizza and nachos looked to die for, and we chose burgers, Ruebens, salad and chili.  All were exceptional, as was conversation with other happy diners as they enjoyed the wide selection of brew.  The Blue Mountain Brewery is an amazing place to relax and refuel after a day of hiking Shenandoah beautiful trails. 

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